"Tell me, gentle traveler, thou
Who hast wandered far and wide,
Seen the sweetest roses blow,
And the brightest rivers glide;
Say, of all thine eyes have seen,
Which the fairest land has been?
"Lady, shall I tell thee where
Nature seems most blest and fair,
Far above all climes beside?---
'Tis where those we love abide:
And that little spot is best
Which the loved one's foot hath pressed.
"Though it be a fairy space,
Wide and spreading is the place;
Though 'twere but a barren mound,
'Twould become enchanted ground.
"With thee yon sandy waste would seem
The margin of Al Kausar's stream;
And thou canst make a dungeon's gloom
A bower where new-born roses bloom."
Jalal ad-Din Rumi (1207-1273 CE)
The Fairest Land, c. 1250 CE
I meant to write this special dedication to the land I was born, fair and beautiful Malaysia with its kind and gentle people, as soon as I got back from Europe in late May. Somehow never got to it. Since we are already in August, and the spirit of
Merdeka all abound, this is an appropriate time as ever perhaps.
Someone wrote to me as I was going home (dreading going back to work ): after 2.5 month of galavanting and shirking all responsibilities), that ..
"Once back home, you will rediscover the beauty of your own surrounding, your work...your friends :)" and yes that was what I felt the moment the airplane touched the runaway of KLIA. Malaysia - Home Sweet Home. I was singing praises on the beauty of KLIA with its enclosed rainforest, in my heart.. the best, cleanest and most aesthetically pleasing state-of-the-art airport in the whole wide world. Mind you I have lived for many years in the US and having gone through the whole of Europe, stopovers in Japan and Middle-East and Asian countries (including "antiseptic" Singapore - Mehmed's and Salman's favorite..eugh :)(wearing my flame-suit), Malaysia is by far the best, warts and all :)
A shopping haven
It just happened the Sunday I arrived was a Wesak Day so the next day, Monday was a holiday. Early in the morning I went to KL with Zura to spend all the leftover Malaysian ringgit in my wallet to my heart's content and to get the shopping bug out of me! (it was no fun to be all over Europe and not able to buy due to the steep exchange rate and the fact I can't carry them in my backpack). Apart from little souvenirs here and there, with exception in Firenze (just had to buy those soft Italian leather things for my siblings), a couple of articles of clothings in Rome and Paris, Belgian chocolates in Bruxelles and a small LV bag at Champ Elysee. Every tourist in Paris it seems were
borong-ing so many LVs. Since I didn't get to go to Britain and Ireland, I spent the money in Paris instead. I also got a beautiful pair of "Laura Ashley"-style curtain at Anver (a gem of a find for 15 euro! I am still pinching myself).
Shopping in Malaysia has developed into a fine state-of-the-art. If you are into electronic playthings, run along to Plaza Imbi for your MP3s, PC, notebooks, and whatnots. If you are into funky clothings, trinkets and shoes, drop by at Sungei Wang Plaza next door. If you are into chic designer goods, rush to KLCC (Coach just opened here BTW :) and spend the whole day there. For whatever else you need, you'll definitely find it at the Mid-Valley Megamall. For food and quirky eclectic fashion and food, Bangsar is the domain, as well for your nite-life and drinking hole.
Some of my favorite shopping haunts are:
Ampang Point (FOS, Royel - unfortunately the British India outlet recently closed for good in July. RIP ): Brunch at my favorite Coffee Bean 'round the corner, where Aidid Marcello used to bus tables and took my orders (he is a great waiter btw) to pay for his TV3 Akademi fees.
Great Eastern Mall (FOS, Aussino, British India - one of the biggest). Have brunch at one of those nice cafes) while reading your Sunday papers.
Mid-Valley Megamall: GSC for award-winning Iranian and other foreign movies, MNG, MPH Bookstore. Head to Dome for some great Oleo (best tasting spaghetti around).
Suria KLCC (Dome for lunch/dinner/coffee, TGV for movies, Kinokinuya Bookstore. There used to be this neat little bookstore that sell all these wonderful titles and rare books but it has closed to my devastation ): please come back! I don't know whether it has moved somewhere else ):
I am adding these(*)coz John said I forgot it :)
* Central Market
It's in the old part of town, adjacent to Petaling Street or Chinatown. It's also not far from the old Moorish train station and Masjid Negara (National Mosque) area. One can find all sorts of souvenirs here from handpainted batik scarves to ethnic inspired paintings, antiques and silver jewelries. My favorite store is the Kelantan silver jewelry store at the entrance and upstairs (same owner). The one upstairs also carries antique silver jewelries. I also like the Thai cakes and pastries sold at the Thai restaurant next to the stairs.
*Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman (Jalan TAR)/Masjid India (Masjid Jamek)
In reality, these days it's quite difficult to access it via car due to the closed street, but if one is taking the monorail/subway it's perfect. If you are into yards and yards of fabrics and all sort of scarves from all over the world, this is the place to go. Silks from India, China, Korea, Italy and elsewhere, as well as French laces find their way here for your selection pleasure. You can find a British India inspired cotton clothes/tunic for a minimal fraction of what you'll pay at British India (RM49 Masjid India price compared to RM299 British India price :)
*Jalan Melayu/Wisma Yakin
This is still in the same area and in the
Wisma Yakin building. You can find Malay attires such as
Baju Kurung and
Baju Melayu, as well as antique
kerongsang (brooches),
cucuk sanggul (hair pins) and silver, gold and precious stones jewelries from the olden days. One can also get
songkok, custom-tailoring, as well as stuff for your
hajj and
umrah preparations here.
*Pasar Malam Jalan TAR
This is perhaps the biggest nite market in town. One can find all sorts of things from
kampung produce to toys, fabrics, clothes, books and hundred varieties of local cakes and pastries as well as savories. This cacophony reaches its peak during the fasting month where it become Pasar Ramadhan.
Oasis in the city
KLCC also has a very good jogger's path..with fragrant plants and flowers and beautiful landmark buildings dotting its side, and coffee bars for one to sip a cool one while watching the lively fountains dancing to the neon lights and live music. My other oasis is the Lake Garden with its many lakes and beautiful landscaping. The Ulu Kelang hills where I made my abode has a very nice "jogger's path"..actually it's an elliptical water retention pond at the edge of the hill. You can hear the waterfall running below it, the chirping of birds and wild animals greeting the new day, wild mountain flowers waking up to the kiss of the morning sun and breathe in fresh crisp morning air while gazing at the breathtaking view of
Banjaran Titiwangsa.
Fresh produce and flowers:
Bangsar Nite Market : 10 oranges for RM5/-; fresh tuberose or
pontianak "Bunga Sundal Malam" (my favorite fresh flowers here in Malaysia since I can't get Lilies-of-the-Valleys!) for RM1 per stalk; Many varieties of roses from RM3 to RM7 per dozen! I think the RM3/per dozen roses doesn't last as long but if you want it just for a couple of days or to make potpourri, it's a great bargain. The RM5-7/dozen lasts a week.
There is another fresh flower shop behind NSTP at Bangsar, but I am rather leery on this joint as the owner and her family are so bloody snooty and
garang as rotweilers! I only go there for my fresh flowers if I have no other choice! I avoid dealing with the fierce old Chinese lady and her brood. I'd wait to pay with the more humble Bangladeshi and Indonesian workers at the cashier.
Chinatown Market : For freshflowers (tuberose, rose, Calla lilies, etc)and trinkets. The only thing with Chinatown, you have to brave yourself through downtown traffic, and then illegally park at the roadside. The best time to go there is weekend morning, park illegally at the sidestreet, rush in and rush out :) The flowers are fresher than those at Bangsar nite market, perhaps explained the higher prices.
I can't believe when I was in Bonn, the whole system shutdown on Sunday. No groceries nothing can be bought on Sunday as none of the stores are opened nor anybody working. This I was told is true throughout the whole DE. My sister told me the same thing in the UK as well. Luckily, the US doesn't have such a strong pro-labor system. There's certainly some good things about the US system after all (Now Sedad and a few others will probably protest this statement..) The US system is also more efficient, cleaner, better value and so much cheaper. I definitely think the quality of life in the US is so much better than Europe in terms of value-for-money (culture-wise Europe definitely has more finesse), while Malaysia is so much better than the US overall, in terms of family life, values and social support system (I am wearing my fire-proof-chemical-retardant suit :-)
Food Glorious Food
Cheap and delicious food served fresh and hot! That's what I missed thruout Europe. The best selection and varieties at any time of the day and nite and morning! CHEAP! You have to come here and sample it to know what we mean :)
Satay Kajang, Laksa Assam, Char Koew Tiaw, Garlic Nan with
Tandoori Chicken, Beryani, Rendang, Mee Goreng, Roti Canai and
Capati, and the list go on and on. For 1 euro, one can get a full hot meal (freshly prepared) with a drink. For 1 euro in Europe, I am lucky to get half of an orange!
I used to work with this Canadian guy when I first came back to Malaysia, Lory who told me every weekend for brunch he would head to his favorite
mamak joint and ate 7 or 8 of roti canai! per person not counting the whole family orders! :)
At our turtle sanctuary last year, we had a group of Earth Watch volunteers from all over the world, Maria(Greece), Jason(Australia), Mikaela(Sweden), David(England) and a bunch of others from India, Philipines, Brazil and the US, who would gobbled
roti canai like it is the most exotic food in the world (it was really scary to see the group order as soon as we found the first roti canai joint on land coz we are like piranha at the smell of blood :) especially after a week on the isolated beach :). I think all the waiters were a bit afraid to come too close to our table! LOL, as soon as they put the
roti canai down, it will disappear and before they even got back to their station, one of us will start ordering some more! After a few breakfast experience of
roti canai with them, I also find novelty in the little pancake of Indian-origin but which has become wholely Malaysian. Thus, I found myself ordering
roti canai at breakfast as soon as I came back to KL.
It was Alden in Sarajevo who told me, as a student in Malaysia he loved Indian food. When he was sent to India for work, he was so excited to sample the Indian food in its native surrounding.. anticipating it to be better or more authentic, but what a letdown coz he found out the Indian food in Malaysia are so much better! :)
Service
Mehmed and Sedad who used to live in Malaysia may have some comments about the waiters services in Malaysia. Somehow I beg to differ with them after observing the more highly paid waiters in Bonn and Paris. Frankly speaking, I think the more humble and lowly-paid waiters in Malaysia are better, quicker, humbler and more alert :) especially those at the warongs :) they'll get your order even before you sit down and your order will arrive at the blink of an eye and they get it right without ever getting the price mixed up. It's amazing how they do this. (Erm.. the superhighly paid waiter in Bonn forgot our order twice..)
Toll girls and boys
If there is a section I would highlight that I truly admire are these folks.
I think they are mostly university students doing part-time and high-school drop outs, but they give the best service. Always smiling and courteous and for me they are the best examples of Malaysian good hospitality and gentle services. A few days after I came back, I was searching for 20 cents in small change to pay toll, and the toll girl just smiled and told me she will pay for me rather than I have to keep hunting around. The only time this was offered to me in the whole of Europe was while I was in Palermo, Sicily when the guy waived euro 20 cents that I needed to pay extra for my left- luggage.
Secluded nature
When I was first adjusting after reluctantly uprooting myself from the US, the first thing I focused on was, to balance what I can look forward to, to replace the things I left behind. So I compensate the beautiful secluded beaches of Malaysia with the four seasons I would missed (I especially missed Spring and Fall ): I am still in-love with Malaysia's secluded beaches such as Ma'Daerah in Kijal and Mok Kepit in Pulau Redang. I enjoyed taking time off from work to recharge myself, to spend lazy days reading my favourite books from a
monsoonswept hammock under the shades of
pokok bunga baru with its fragrant pink-fushcia flowers, while at nite I get to baby-sit nesting mother turtles or release its hatchlings to the ocean. Going fishing on our small speed boat in the morning to catch fish for lunch.. Taking a long refreshing soak in the natural cascading pools off the freshwater stream, (after a day of fishing and snorkeling at our own private beach, with its pristine clear turquoise water)..with mousedeers shyly peeking, wild birds cheerfully chirping and colorful butterflies playfully flirting, and the clear blue blue sky providing natural light for my reading, gaping among the tall green canopies ..perfecting my nature therapy. At nite I will opt to sleep on the beach..gazing at the twinkling diamonds in the clear unpolluted horizon.. my million-stars hotel...my own little piece of heaven on earth.
What more can one asked for? :)
